HISTORY112 - History of Hairstyling

The subjects for my blogs come from a variety of sources.  This blog arose from a discussion between Pat and her hairdresser, wondering about the history of hairdressing.  Always on the lookout for blog subjects for me, Pat mentioned that discussion and wondered if it would make for an interesting article.  (My last blog was about how the universe works, so why not hair styling?)

 

So, I will talk here about the history of hairstyling - from prehistoric times, through the major eras of civilization, to the present.  As always, I chose a subject that I want to learn more about, and that will hopefully interest you the reader.

I will list my principal sources at the end.

 

Introduction

For this blog, a hairstyle, hairdo, haircut, or coiffure refers to the styling of hair on the human head.  The fashioning of hair can be considered an aspect of personal grooming, fashion, and cosmetics, although practical, cultural, and popular considerations also influence some hairstyles.

Since the earliest days of human existence, hair has been a significant aspect of personal grooming and identity.  Initially, hair trimming was primarily functional, aimed at removing excess hair for practical reasons, using tools like flint knives or singeing techniques.  However, as civilization dawned, grooming practices evolved, and people began to pay greater attention to personal hygiene and appearance.  This shift marked the beginning of the art of hairstyling.

Hairstyles have evolved from a display of power and wealth to an expression of self and individuality.  Hair has been used as a medium to make political statements, rebel against social norms, and to tell one’s story.  Hair has signified religious sanctity, and women’s rights.  Hairstyles are markers and signifiers of social class, age, marital status, racial identification, political beliefs, and attitudes about gender.

Through the years, hair has been braided, colored, teased, adorned, covered, or removed entirely to reflect not only the fashions of the day, but also the values of the era and the individual.

I will concentrate on the Western world:  Europe and America.

 

Prehistory

The earliest known examples of hairstyling, potentially dating back around 30,000 years, are found on the figurines of the Venus of Willendorf, discovered in 1908 during an archaeological dig in the village of Willendorf, Austria; and the Venus of Brassempouy, discovered in 1892 during archaeological excavations at the Grotte du Pape (Pope's Cave) near Brassempouy, France.  These Stone Age figurines depict what may be hair braiding, or possibly head coverings. 

Venus of Willendorf figurine, estimated to have been made 30,000years ago, shows braided hair or a hair covering.
 

Other evidence of early hairstyling includes the world’s oldest mummies, the Chincorro Mummies, discovered in 1914, in northern Chile, which are around 7,000 years old and show evidence of braiding. 

Sharp rocks and shells would have been Stone Age tools of choice to cut hair.  In ancient times, hair styling combs were made of various natural materials like wood, bone, and ivory, and were used to maintain healthy, tangle-free hair. 

 

5500 - 1800 BC / Ancient Sumer

In one of the earliest civilizations, ancient Sumer, in Mesopotamia (modern day Iraq), hairstyles varied by gender.  Men often had shaved their heads or wore their hair long and carefully curled and ringleted, with false hair added if needed, sometimes with full beards.  Kings might have worn full beards and long braided hair tied into a large bun. Some men wore golden helmets that replicated their hairstyles. 

Women frequently wore their hair long, braided, and styled into large buns, that covered the top of the head and sometimes reached the base of the neck, often adorned with ribbons, pins, and jewelry, particularly by the wealthy.  Women sometimes wore netting, scarves, or turbans to cover their hair. 

Overall, hairstyles in ancient Sumer were not just about aesthetics; they also reflected social status and potentially religious beliefs.  For example, the elaborate hairstyles of royalty and the use of jewelry would have indicated their wealth and power.  Perfumes, oils, and black dye were used on the hair.

Hairstyle from Ancient Sumer.

3150 - 30 BC / Ancient Egypt

From elaborate shaped hair to wigs and braiding techniques, ancient Egyptians knew a great deal of styling methods and used them as cultural and identity expressions.  Popular hairstyles included smooth, shoulder-length hair with straight fringes, often associated with figures like Cleopatra.  Additionally, the pageboy hairstyle and micro braids were common, with wigs being used to achieve desired looks.  Hair accessories like beads and golden tints were popular, enhancing the overall aesthetic.  Hair care and styling were primarily the domain of female servants, who performed grooming and beauty routines for others.

Children had their lock of youth cut off as they hit puberty, while men could easily be split between low and high class by whether they were wearing a wig or not.  Women in ancient Egypt used flowers, gold strands, beads, ribbons, and elaborate jewelry in their tresses, depending on their social status; high class women, like men, used to wear curly or plaited hair.  Hairpins, made of metal, ivory, bronze, carved wood, etc., were used in ancient Egypt for securing decorated hairstyles.

Henna, a reddish dye prepared from the dried and powdered leaves of the henna tree, became a staple in the hair care routine of ancient Egyptians. To this day, henna is widely used as a natural hair dye and a protective treatment for hair.

Ancient Egyptian hairstyles.

 

The use of scissors in haircutting has a rich history, evolving from simple tools to highly specialized instruments.  Early scissors, dating to around 1500 BC in ancient Egypt, were bronze spring scissors (allowing you to pinch the two blades together), used to cut various materials including hair.  The Romans around 100 AD developed pivoted scissors, a design that influenced future scissor development.  Over time, advancements in materials like steel and the rise of specialized haircutting techniques led to the creation of barber shears and modern hairdressing scissors. 

As civilizations developed, so did the tools, with Egyptians using copper and later bronze razors.  The Romans and Greeks adopted and refined these practices, and by the Middle Ages, steel razors became common. 

 

500 - 31 BC / Ancient Greece

In ancient Greece, hairstyling was considered an art form, with elaborate braids and hair adornments being prominent features.  Greek men and women alike paid attention to their hair, with coiled and closely cropped styles being popular among men.  The Athene Hairdressing Academy in Greece introduced innovations such as curling irons (bronze rods), which transformed straight hair into waves.  Hair coloring techniques involved the use of various mixtures made from herbs and minerals.

Ancient Grecian hairstyles.

 

27 BC - 476 AD / Roman Empire

Roman hairstyles for women had modest beginnings, usually with simple tresses bound with a band on top of the head.  In ancient Rome, hairstyling varied greatly based on individual preference; women often wore their hair tied up in a tight bun, resembling a pretzel.

However, as the Roman Empire expanded, the desire to display wealth, power, and status led to elaborate creations to enhance the woman’s appearance.  As clothing was often not a signifier of a woman’s status, the Romans turned to intricate hairstyles to flaunt their power.  The more complex and unnatural the hairstyle, the more it reflected the woman’s wealth.  Women who could afford the expense piled their hair high, using wires; dyed their hair blonde, red, or black; created intricate curls; wore wigs; and adorned their hair with flowers, jewels, and pearls. For married women, a palla, an elaborated veil draped around a woman’s head and falling over the shoulder, was used to cover their hair to mark the respectable status of married women.

Men favored short and plain hairstyles.  Hair adornments made of gold, bronze, or silver were common, adding a touch of elegance to Roman hairstyles.

Roman hair was often lightened using wood ash, unslaked lime, and sodium bicarbonate, or darkened with copper filings, oak-apples, or leeches marinated in wine and vinegar.  It was augmented by wigs, hairpieces, and pads, and held in place by nets, pins, combs, and pomade.

Ancient Roman hairstyles.

 

5^th - 16^th Century AD / European Middle Ages to Renaissance

During the early Middles Ages to 1400, hairstyles were heavily influenced by social status, geographic region, and religious beliefs, particularly personal modesty.  Most women grew their hair as long as it would naturally grow, and generally covered their hair with veils, or other head coverings.

European men wore their hair cropped no longer than shoulder-length, with very fashionable men wearing bangs or fringes.  In Italy, it was common for men to dye their hair.  

In the latter half of the 15^th century, and on into the 16^th century, a very high hairline on the forehead was considered attractive, and wealthy women frequently plucked out hair at their temples and the napes of their necks, or used depilatory cream to remove it.  Working-class women in this period wore their hair in simple styles.

Hairstyles served as potent symbols of social status and occupation.  Upper-class individuals utilized elaborate hairstyles to signify wealth and privilege.  These hairstyles often constrained movement. 

Middle-class individuals sought hairstyles that conveyed health and vitality, reflecting their ability to afford a quality lifestyle and prioritize self-care. 

Working-class hairstyles tended to be simpler.  Men often sported shaved heads or closely cropped hair, emphasizing efficiency and ease of maintenance.  Women typically wore long hair, pulled back from their faces, and secured tightly, allowing for practicality in their daily tasks.

The Elizabethan period (1558 - 1603) saw a dramatic change in culture as England transitioned from the fiercely religious Middle Ages and into a more secular society that embraced science, politics, and art.  The veils of the Medieval period signifying religious modesty were cast aside for the first time in England where women went about with their hair uncovered. 

Hairstyles of the Elizabethan era were characterized by high, frizzed hair, and often placed over wires or pads to create a heart-shaped frame around the head.  These hairstyles were made easier when the first metal hairpins were invented in England in 1545.  These long, thin hairpins, were utilized for parting, braiding, and styling women's hair.  Additionally, primitive curling rods, heated over fires or hot coals, were employed to achieve curls, albeit with the risk of hair damage if overheated.

Elizabethan era hairstyles for women.

 

The ideal hair was considered to be fair or red in color and preferably naturally curly as inspired by the Queen herself.  Women would supplement their own hair with natural hairpieces sometimes, rumored to have come from horses or even children’s hair.  Wigs became fashionable in the last quarter of the century, being first introduced to England around 1572.

 

17^th Century

The 17^th Century saw a departure from women’s hairstyles made popular by Queen Elizabeth I and a move towards the latest French trends.  Inspired by Charles I’s wife, Henrietta of France, the height of fashion for women was to part the hair in the middle, flatten the top, then frizz and curl each side of the head.  Following the English Civil War (1642-1651), Puritanical beliefs about modesty led women to wear their hair short and straight, or bunched up underneath a white cap.  This abstinence in extravagant style came to an end in 1660 when Charles II was restored to the throne.  His use of wigs renewed public interest in flamboyant styles.  Materials such as horse, yak, and human hair were customary in the wigs of the affluent.  The last decades of the 17^th century introduced the “Fontange” as it became the most fashionable women's hairstyle with a mass of curls above the forehead that were supported by wire and decorated with a headdress of standing lace. The style was created by the Marquise de Fontange when her coiffure was ruined while out hunting.  Versions of the Fontange were worn by all ranks of English society.

Queen Mary II of England wearing a Fontange hairstyle in 1688.

 

The word “hairdresser” became associated with a profession that takes care of hair, scalp, wearing and styling wigs, and much more.  The profession spread widely in Europe.  In the meantime, England saw a rise of bleached blonde shades and red dye, made famous by the hundreds of wigs worn by Queen Elizabeth I.

Political alliances dominated men’s appearances in the 17^th century.  The Royalist “Cavalier” style was characterized by shoulder length hair.  Ribbons and bows were often used and “lovelocks,” a small lock of hair that cascaded from the crown of the head down over the left shoulder, were treated as special features.  The Parliamentarian “Roundheads” typically wore their hair cropped.  When the English monarchy regained sovereignty, men kept their hair long and curly and often used highly-styled wigs as a substitute to their own hair.  Some men, in particular soldiers and travelers, began to tie back the long hair at the nape of the neck into a pony-tail.  With wigs gaining wide popularity in both France and England, the first wigmaker’s guild was established in 1655.  The beard had been in a long decline and now disappeared among the upper classes.

 

Late 17^thcentury men’s hairstyle.

 

18^th Century

The Fontange of the 17^th Century gradually saw a reduction in size and height as women for the first half of the 18^th Century generally wore their hair small and close to the head.  Hair was worn in soft curls or waves, with little or no height.  Most Frenchwomen powdered their hair with white powder; Englishwomen generally left their hair unpowdered.  At the back, the hair was generally arranged in small curls, a twist or braid worn pinned to the head, or pulled up smoothly.

The formality of the 17^th and early 18^th Centuries eventually gave way to the frivolity of the latter half of the 18^th Century as hairstyles rose to great heights, and adornments ranged from ribbons and jewels to flowers and stuffed animals. 

In the middle of the 18^th century, the pouf-style developed, with women creating volume in the hair at the front of the head, usually with a pad underneath to lift it higher, and ornamented the back with seashells, pearls, or gemstones.  In 1750, women began dressing their hair with perfumed pomade and powdering it white.

The “a la Fregate” made its debut in this century with a model war ship riding on rippling waves of hair.  Women rarely wore whole wigs as they were intended for men.  Instead, they hired professional hairdressers who added false hair to their natural locks.  Women were expected to augment their own hair with false hair, padding, powder, wires, and ornaments.  Because these hairstyles were often held into place using lard, rats were attracted to the creations and made homes of the coiffure.

 

18^th century women’s hairstyle.

 

18^th Century men wore wigs for formal events, and, for informal occasions, hair was worn long and powdered, brushed back from the forehead and tied back at the nape of the neck with a black ribbon.  Introduced by Frederick William I for “the convenience of the soldiers” of his army, this “tie wig” is the style most usually associated with the 18^th Century.  By the 1780s, young men were setting a fashion trend by lightly powdering their natural hair. Hair powder was originally used mostly as a degreaser.  White haired wigs were popular because they were expensive and rare, and so men began to use white powder to color their wigs and hair, as it was less destructive than dye.

After 1790, both wigs and powder were reserved for older more conservative men.  In 1795, the English government put a tax on hair powder which ended both the fashion for wigs and powder by 1800.  In France the association of wigs with the aristocracy caused the fashion for both to disappear during The Terror of 1793, a period of intense violence and mass executions during the French Revolution.  After wig powders started to get heavily taxed, men quickly started dropping their wigs to avoid a financial crisis.  Also, English hairdressers began to produce the first shampoo, preparing the product by boiling soap in water with added fragrances and herbs.

 

19^th Century

During the 19^th century, a crucial period for hairstyling, women embraced new trends such as buns, middle partings, and cascading curls.  This shift was facilitated by the introduction of groundbreaking tools like the marcel iron (invented by French hairstylist Marcel Grateau in 1870s), which allowed for precise heat regulation and enhanced curling capabilities through innovative clamps.  In 1888, French hairstylist Alexandre Godefoy invented the first electric hair dryer.  Additionally, the widespread adoption of hairbrushes revolutionized hairstyling, empowering more women to experiment with versatile hairdos.  This marked a significant turning point in the history of hairdressing, with the mass production of new tools and the establishment of modern hair salons.

Queen Victoria, who reigned in the United Kingdom from 1837-1901, was a fashion icon; in the early years of her reign, she inspired the “Apollo Loop” in which a plain or coiled plait of false hair was attached onto wires to create eye-catching loops worn vertically on top of the head.  But the use of elaborate wigs made way for cleaner, gentler looks. The Victorian period of fashion was about living more simply than the previous era.  Hairstyles eventually became more natural and demurer with hair parted in the middle, drawn into a bun or coil with curls allowed to fall loosely at the sides of the head. 

Late 19^th century women’s hairstyle.

 

The Industrial Revolution saw the rise of the middle classes and brought new fashions for clothes and hair.  Additionally, women began using soaps to clean their hair, but this act would strip away oils, leaving the hair stringy and dry.  Products to restore hair’s luster included vegetable oil and even bear grease.

In the early 19^th century, the male beard, mustaches, and sideburns, made a strong reappearance, and remained very common until the 1890s, after which younger men ceased to wear them.  Throughout much of the Victorian Era, most men wore fairly short hair, from just over the top of the ears at the start of the period to a moderately close cut towards the end of the 19^th Century.  Victorian men used different kinds of waxes and oils to keep their facial hair in shape, including wood frames used at night to keep their moustaches shaped.  A clean-shaven face did not come back into fashion until the end of the 1880s and early 1890s.

 

20^th Century

In the 20^th century, hairstyles became increasingly diverse and served as a form of personal expression and cultural identity.  Hairstyles reflected social movements, technological advancements, and shifts in popular culture, shaping the way people presented themselves to the world.  Key developments in hairstyle through the decades were influenced by various factors, including fashion, music, and celebrity culture.

The 20^th century witnessed the advent of synthetic hair dye (1907), permanent wave machines (1909), flat irons to straighten hair (1909), bobby pins (1916), electric curling irons (1959), rollers - both heated and non-heated - for achieving glamorous waves and voluminous styles (1950s-1970s), home color kits (1960s), and crimping irons and volumizing products for "big hair" styles (1970s-1980s).  These inventions revolutionized hairstyling practices, enabling the creation of entirely new hairstyles and fashion trends.  Furthermore, the integration of plastics in tool production spurred endless design possibilities and improved temperature regulation, facilitating the emergence of innovative hairstyling techniques.

The 20^th Century saw much social change for women; from obtaining the right to vote in many countries to sexual liberation in the 1960s.  With each passing decade, women styled their hair to reflect their increasingly liberated lifestyles.  Growing affluence at all levels of society throughout the century created a constant demand for novelty.  Changes in hair styling occurred regularly throughout the decades.

Beginning with the Edwardian Era (1901-1910) in England, hairstyles at the turn of the century were characterized by a romantic, soft fullness created by back-combing and the use of hair pads. However, the “Roaring Twenties” abandoned the previous constraints and women caused a stir by going to barber shops to get their hair cut into a bob.  The free-spirited young women of the 1920s shortened their hair as well as their skirts and enjoyed themselves. 

Hollywood became an important interest during the late 1930s and 1940s, and remained a major influence on hairstyles throughout the century as many women wished to emulate their screen idols’ style.  In the 1950s, platinum blonde became extremely popular thanks to diva Marilyn Monroe. Sewn-in weaves became a popular form of human hair extensions around the same time. 

During the 1960s, hair became a big thing - quite literally. Puffs and beehives were extremely popular, and people started using clip-in hair extensions to get the necessary volume and length to create these styles. The big hair trend evolved in the 1970s too, where what we now call the “retro blowout” gained fame thanks to Farrah Fawcett.

In the 1980s, curls and perms became extremely popular. These are the years of puffy curly bangs and colorful touches, backcombing and funky colored hair extensions.

In the 1990s, perfectly straight locks became very popular thanks to supermodel Naomi Campbell, although the big bouncy blowout and ponytails were still widely appreciated.  Women still looked to Hollywood for inspiration as “The Rachel,” sparked by American actress, Jennifer Aniston, was the most requested hair style of the decade.  The advent of the internet in the 1990s allowed styling ideas to spread globally within minutes.

Women’s hairstyles in the 20^thcentury.

 

In the first years of the 20^th Century, some men were still wearing moustaches, but usually with short hair. The 1920s style, however, was a clean-shaven face and flat-combed, short hair.  Oils and Pomades helped men style their hair in the 1930s and 1940s. 

Much like the women of the 20^th Century, men also turned to popular culture for hairstyle inspiration.  As Hollywood films emerged, men’s hairstyles were often influenced by leading male actors, such as James Dean, Clarke Gable, and Elvis Presley.

Musicians, such as the Beatles, were highly influential in the styling of men’s hairstyles as well, inspiring such haircuts as the “mop.”

21^st Century

So far, the 21^st century has witnessed remarkable technological advancements in the field of hairstyling, revolutionizing the way people care for and style their hair.  Hairstyling tools have continued to evolve, introducing innovations such as advanced flat irons, cordless hair dryers, hot air brushes, and smart hair tools, programmable through mobile apps.  These modern tools boast ergonomic designs and lightweight technology, enhancing user experience, and offer greater precision, efficiency, versatility, and convenience than ever before.  Digital tools equipped with advanced features like adjustable heat settings, LCD displays, and auto-shutoff functions provide users with greater control and safety.

In the 21^st century, hairstyles for women are diverse and highly influenced by cultural trends, individual preferences, and the ever-evolving fashion scene.  Popular hairstyles include natural textures, bobs, pixie cuts, layers, ponytails, and the reemergence of styles like space buns and middle-part ponytails.  Extreme hair colors offer some women the opportunity to stand out from the crowd.

Men's hairstyles in the 21^st century are diverse and highly personal, with a focus on versatility and individuality.  Popular styles include slick-backs, crew cuts, buzz cuts, undercuts (with short hair on the sides and back of the head, contrasted by longer hair on top), fades, and textured crops, along with the resurgence of beards.  The warrior cut, (a low taper fade with a shorter back and a long-textured top - a short, messy look), is also gaining traction.  Man buns, cornrows, and faux hawks also remain popular choices.  And have you noticed the wild, braided hairstyles prevalent in today’s men’s profession basketball?

Hairstylist Pang Zoua Thor highlights the varied hairstyles of the 21^stcentury.

 

The Future of Hairstyling

Hairstyling is always evolving, and the future is shaping up to be a mix of technical innovation and a comeback of classic aesthetics.  The recast from Pang Zoua Thor: “Expect to see an increased influence of technology with digital tools and apps that offer personalized haircut simulations.  [Evolving from shape-of-face matching]. virtual reality could let you try on a new hairdo before scissors ever touch your locks.  Also, sustainability will be huge - think eco-friendly products and techniques that minimize environmental impact.  The return of vintage styles with a modern twist is also on the rise.  Stylists are likely to experiment more, combining timeless looks with contemporary flair.   Keep your eyes peeled for these changes; they're set to redefine the boundaries of hair styling.”

 

“Life isn’t perfect but your hair can be.” (Anonymous)

 

Sources

My primary sources include: “Hairstyle,” enwikepeda.com; “Hair: the styling of society,” chertseymuseum.org; “The Incredible History of Hair Styling,” cliphair.com; “History of Hairstyling: From Ancient Tools to Modern Techniques,” tymobeautly.com; “The Evolution of Hair Styling Tools,” the bossmagazine.com; plus, numerous other online sources.  I particularly want to recognize the use of online artificial intelligence ChatGPT summaries on many subjects related to this blog.